| SYMPTOM: MOTOR WON'T START |
| Cause: | Procedure: |
| No electricity. | Check the fuse and circuit breaker |
| No power to the motor. | Check the power connection. Check for loose connections to incoming power lines. Turn on the power. Check the motors line leads with a voltmeter. (Turn off electrical power at fuse or breaker before procedding!) |
| SYMPTOM: MOTOR WON'T START - HUMS |
| Cause: | Procedure: |
| Locked bearings. | Uncouple the pump and spin the motor shaft. Check for a tight pump seal, an obstruction in the pump housing or a bad bearing. |
| Incorrect Connections. | Check the motro connection diagram. |
| Low Voltage. | Check the voltage with a voltmeter. Voltage at the motor terminal must be within plus or minus 10 percent of the voltage listed on the nameplate. |
| Excessive load. | Check for a clogged pump impeller, bent shaft or a bad bearing. |
| Winding. | Check for a short, open circuit or ground in the winding, the lead connections or the connections from the winding to the motor leads. |
| An open start switch. | Move pump vertically closer to water source. |
| Start-capacitor failure. | Check for debris; a white residue usually indicates a faulty start capacitor. |
| Loose capacitor connections. | Check capacitor connections. |
| SYMPTOM: EXCESSIVE NOISE AND VIBRATION WHEN MOTOR IS RUNNING |
| Cause: | Procedure: |
| Devective motro bearings | Check for noise while spinning the unloaded shaft. |
| Loose or binding parts | Inspect the pump and motor |
| A bent shaft | Remove the motor and check the shaft run-out (straightness) |
| The start switch doesn't open | Turn the switch from start to stop and repeat as necessary; if the noise disappears, the witch may be defective. |
| SYMPTOM: MOTOR HOT, SMOKING OR CYCLING |
| Cause: | Procedure: |
| The motor is overloaded | Check the nameplate; if the full load current (in amps) exceeds the motor's rating, the pump load might be excessive. |
| Clogged air openings | Inspect air openings |
| The voltavge is too high or too low |
Check voltage, which must be within plu or minus 10 percent of the listed nameplate voltage. |
| Incorrect connections. | Refer to the nameplate and control diagrams. |
| The winding is shortened or grounded. | Check the winding for damage. Check the condition of the ground Measure the winding distance. |
| Switch fails to open | Check for welded switch contacts. Check for broken springs Replace the switch |
| Run capacitor failure | Check for a bulged capacitor (indicates failure). |
| SYMPTOM: HOT OR NOISY BEARINGS |
| Cause: | Procedure: |
| The endsheilds are loose or cracked. | Check the through-bolts for tightness. Check the frame-to-endshield rabbit fit. Spin the motor shaft - it should turn freely. |
| A bent shaft. | Measure the shaft run-out (straightness.) |
| A defective bearing. | Check for noise while spinning the shaft. |
| Excessive grease on ball bearings. | Inspect and clean ball bearings. |
| The ball bearings need grease. | Inspect and regrease. |
| Wrong grease used. | Clean ball bearings and replace with Chevron SRI-2 or equivalent. |
| SYMPTOM: MOTOR CAPACITOR TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE |
| Cause: | Procedure: |
| Turn off all power to the motor. Using an insulated screwdriver, discharge the capacitor by shorting across the terminals. Set ohmmeter at the highest value and attach the clips to the capacitor terminals. |
Check the capacitor with the ohmmeter: If the needle drops to the zero range and slowly rises, the capacitor is probably good. If the needle drops to zero and stays there, the capacitor is probably shorted; If the needle remains at a high value, the capacitor probably has shorted. |